From Magazine Pages to Real Life Faces

We all want the look: a perfect, flawless, air-brushed face. Skin so perfected you think Photoshop worked it's magic outside the computer. Flip a page in the latest magazine and there it is -- staring up at you with a doll-like complexion through the glossy page of a billion dollar marketing campaign promising you too can look that good. Dazzled and then depressed because you know you can't replicate that look because it isn't in your genetic makeup to have skin so smooth, you flip the page and move on to the next ad.

While we may not naturally have a face that would launch a thousand ships, we have the tools and materials we need to get us there. Over the years I have experimented my way through countless brands, spending money faster than I earned it and spending more time than the average makeup guru in Sephora. Of them, I have developed love and hate relationships with various brands; picking up different tricks of the trade to creating the illusion of a flawless finish. For starters, let's talk tools. A great foundation brush is key in creating a look that will have guys wondering just how smooth and soft your perfect complexion really is. Of the numerous foundation brushes available, I prefer the "188 Small Duo Fibre Face Brush" by MAC Cosmetics. Made from a blend of soft goat and synthetic fibres, this white tipped brush is perfect for applying foundations of any kind -- creme, fluid or powder. TIP: Blend foundation into skin in circular motions to create an air-brushed illusion. To blend in those hard-to-reach spots, any regular foundation brush will do!

http://www.maccosmetics.com/product/spp.tmpl?CATEGORY_ID=CAT146&PRODUCT_ID=1391CATEGORY_ID=CAT146&PRODUCT_ID=1391 $34.00

Primers, Foundations and Powder Compact Brands I swear by:

- Cover FX Mineral Powder Foundation: The Cover FX brand was developed to "correct and perfect" the complexion of your skin. With A+-mazing coverage, this compact (and entire brand!) can make absolutely anyone's skin look model perfect without the feeling of layered-on, caked-on makeup. Nobody likes to see streaky makeup lines of too-heavy foundations! Cover FX is one of the most highly recommended brands for sensitive and intolerant skin by dermatologists.
http://www.sephora.com/browse/brand_hierarchy.jhtml?brandId=Cover%20FX&categoryId=C108 $32

SMASHBOX Photo Finish Primer: Smashbox is the leading brand for photography friendly cosmetics. Makeup artists around the world swear by this brand and many have offered their tricks of the trade. This award winning foundation primer is the perfect start to a perfect face! Patted on (rather than rubbed), this primer comes in numerous, purpose-driven shades that prep your face for foundation.

Clear, colorless: original and light

Green: minimizes redness

Lavender: for yellow skintones

Apricot: conceals under eye cirlces, veins and sunspots

Bronze: gives illusion of a sheer tan

http://www.sephora.com/browse/product.jhtml?id=P9889&categoryId=C10905 $36

Makeup Forever HD Invisible Cover Foundation: This camera-ready, photo-friendly foundation fills in fine lines and pores, giving its users a fabulously flawless finish. Available at Sephora, this professional brand has mastered a liquid foundation that gives buildable, oil-free medium to full coverage.

http://www.sephora.com/browse/product.jhtml?id=P217905&categoryId=C13402 $40

To Keep It, Or Not To Keep It?

One of the last times I saw my mother, we were on vacation and spending a little face time with the mirror -- applying makeup here and there, straightening hair only to tease it up with more hair spray going than a graffiti artist. It was while we were painting on foundation that my mother whips out her Prescriptives Liquid Foundation and proudly states: "I am so good, this is the same one I originally bought!" Let's back up. Nearly three years ago I discovered the Prescriptives brand and instantly started a love affair with their customer blend foundations. A victim of rosacea, my half white - half Asian skin goes between an annoying balance of yellows and reds. Enter Prescriptives custom blend. The life saver of all life savers for those of us that completely dread foundation matching and the hours it takes to finally land the right one. Around this time I discovered the brand I introduced my mother to it. We both bought our own blends -- hers, however, matching without needing to be blended. Within in the last three year since we both purchased out foundations, I have experimented in and out of numerous, countless brands. While, standing side by side in front of the mirror, my mother held in her hand the same foundation from three years ago.

Which transitions me to my point at hand: When exactly do you dispose of your makeup? We hear bits and pieces here and there warning us about when we need to throw out our cosmetics. But with gossip zooming about faster than a billionaire testing out a new jet, it is impossible to pin point the exact time period one can hold on to their cosmetics. Well, ladies, here is what you need to know:

Foundation: Water-based foundations can last up to 12 months; oil-based foundations can last up to 18 months.
Face Powder: Face powders can last up to 2 years.
Concealers: Concealers can last up to 12 months.
Eye Liner: Eye liners should be sharpened on a regular basis and can last up to 3 years.
Eye Shadow: Eye shadows can last up to 3 years.
Mascara: Mascaras can last up to 3 months.
Lip Liner: Lip liners can last up to 3 years.
Lipstick: Lipsticks can last up to 4 years.
Nail Polish: Depending on the quality, nail polishes can last up to 12 months.

Now, not all of us have that magical photographic memory that renders us the ability to take one click glance and remember exactly what I just told you -- let's get real. Thankfully the beauty industry is required to label all products before they can go to market. Ever wonder what that little jar with a lid opening up off it is? It shows the length of time that particular product is suitable for once it has been open. There will be a little number inside the jar -- that is the amount of months you have to safely use your product.

Saying bye-bye to old, worn out cosmetics and cleaning out brushes at least once a month with mild face cleanser or a brush cleanser are all ways to avoid the growth of bacteria in your cosmetics and skin care products. If you're a week late, no biggie. But if you are two years too late like my mother -- toss it out and start paying attention! You skin is the largest organ of your body, so treat it with a little TLC because if you don't, it will show.

1, 2, 3, CLEANSE!

We all know how it goes. You've had model perfect, flawless skin for years, but suddenly it seems like oily, clogged pores have moved in and planted permanent residence on your face. So what do you do? You race to your bathroom, search your beauty cupboard and scrub away at your face, exfoliating like a woodman sands wood. Then, with the sink still running, you reach for some outrageous, "Dries-out-pores-instantly" facial cleanser and continue to scrub, rub and rinse. But wait, the minute you pat your face dry, you reach for the final regimen to your quick fix -- moisturizer. However, as the dried out, burning and tightening sensation kicks in, you slather on as much moisturizer as you can; it says OIL-FREE right!? Then, after a quick scan over in the mirror, you smile, relax an wait for the magic to happen.

Except most of the time, it doesn't. Let's re-look at that process you just went through as there are a few things you are doing that are doing just the opposite of keeping your skin clear and healthy. For starters, I would bet the only magical element of your "amazing results" facial scrub/cleanser is the blend of ingredients that not even an evil Genie would grant on your skin. At all costs, try to avoid cleansing products with sodium cocoate and sodium tallowate. Unless your skin is extremely oily, try to avoid these products as much as possible as they contain strong soaps/detergents that strip the oil from your skin and don't put it back. Also, avoid cleaners in the shape of a bar. The ingredients holding these products together as a bar shape are too harsh for your face and the synthetic coconut-oil derivative ingredients that supposedly "moisturize" are only clogging your pores.

Next, we all know how that tight, dry feeling after a serious cleanse feels. It's both liberating as we are convinced it means the oil is gone and we are a step closer to clearer skin; as it is painful so we automatically reach for the moisturizer. And chances are, we get moisturizer crazy -- I mean, the bottles say OIL FREE and those models in the advertisements have perfect skin, so it must be healthy. WRONG, WRONG, WRONG. Many people actually overmoisturize, only further clogging pores rather than working towards clearing them. Note to self -- exfoliating should only be done a couple times a week. Not every day, we need that protectant layer on our faces to protect our delicate skin. But we also need to scrub away dead skin cells and show the world our pretty, bright and happy faces. :)

Perfected Imperfections

Upon politely telling him his sweater was unevenly buttoned, one of my best friends, Ryan, nonchalantly responded: "Oh that? No I meant to do that, I think the uneven, asymmetrical look looks better." And with a carefree shrug of his shoulder, my fashion iconic friend looked the other way as if scanning for something to dare him to elaborate. 

The fashion industry is owning it. Sharp shouldered, masculine blazers; washed, worn and studded leather; metallic, acidic washed denim; heavy metal arrays of gold and silver chains; gardens of rich laces, ruffles and bows -- all thrown casually over elegant frocks. Pair it with sky riser heels and jewelry that has the women of the Elizabethan era rising from the dead, it is the romanticized blend of masculinity and femininity. The casual, carefree, oh-this-old-thing? look that renders its trendsetters cutting edge and high fashion. My friend Ryan defines it: a look so severely planned out that only the truly unique can pull off casually. 

The beauty industry is redefining it. Giving the world of fashion it's extra oompf by revamping and complimenting the hardcore, masculine look a sexy, seductress edge. The classic smokey eye has skyrocketed to new levels, done up in shades ranging from dusty, sizzling hot bronzes to cool, crisp gunmetal hues to out of this world, let-the-paint-splatter-where-it-may colors. This season the nude lip is taking the stage, daring the eyes to boldly make a statement; daring women to break loose through the power of heavy, khol lined eyes. 

To me, its the perfected imperfected look that will soon reign its comeback in the industry. Eyes washed in dark, metallic colors; lashes full; cheekbones defined like the Sierra Mountains; highlighters catching the light at every angle; lips so nude they flirt with the illusion of being erased. All elements combined to look thrown together, messy, sexy -- the temptress that rolled out of bed and threw on black leather pumps to compliment her worn in, dark sunken eyes. Little do they know the precise, exact techniques of the makeup brushes; purposely adding a touch of color here and there. It's sexy, it's seducing, it's contradicting; it's so over the top it's Ryan, daring the world to question it, so comfortable and unique -- and so carefully planned out it's astonishing. 

Best Nude Lipstick: Fleshpot by MAC (exclusively sold in Pro Shops); Myth by MAC

Best Black Eye Shadows: Carbon by MAC; Oil Slick by Urban Decay

Best Smokey Eye Colors: Gunmetal by Urban Decay; Mauvement loose pigment by MAC

Best Bronzer: Sun Bunny by Too Faced; Terracotta 4 by Guerlain

TIP: Try MAC Cosmetic's Pro Gloss as your eye shadow primer; it'll liquify and vamp up your smokey eyes.

Suddsin' It Up with Sudzz FX

Run your fingers through your hair and you want to feel silky, smooth, healthy, healthy hair -- not broken, dry, brittle hair that feels like your split ends have split ends. After recently discovering the no-no's of the hair care world, I gave myself some homework and walked my little high heel booties over to the nearest salon with my eyes and mind ready to get down and dirty with ingredients. After reading and rereading over ingredients listings -- there are SO many products I once swore by -- I was about to give up on finding a brand that would actually give my hair's end result a little TLC when I found it.

Lo and behold ladies (and gentlemen!), a hair care brand that works wonders and is good for your hair! Enter the brand, Sudzz FX. Like myself, this brand was developed to care for hair that has been moisture-robbed from blowdrying and dying, environmental pollution (and stress!), and is recommended to take the place of those sad little shampoos with stripping sulfates. Sudzz FX utilizes the latest ingredients and technology formulas cleanse, repair, moisturize and protect your hair from the brutal damage you or your environment puts it through. They use sulfate-free cleansing treatments that contain time-release microcapsules that are formulated with liquid crystallized natural honey and keratin-repairing complexes.

Of the Sudzz FX products I tried, I developed a loyal love affair to the Cashmere Cleansing Shampoo and Moxee Reconstructing Conditioner. Both products contain FXulites® that repair, rebuild and revitalize the structure of your hair. Along with ColourFix3 Complex™, both ingredients work hard to keep your hair healthy and soft -- and did I mention yet that they are SULFATE FREE!? Yes -- finally, a system that is good for your hair and feels good. Personally, I am very picky when it comes to my hair care products. A slave to the straightener, ratting brush and hardcore hairspray that could kill the o-zone layer alone, I am in constant need of a hair care system that works and leaves my hair feeling rejuvinated. The Sudzz FX brand is absolutely amazing and I highly recommend it any glamour gal on the hunt for something healthy.

"THE FXULITES® POTENT REPARATIVE COMPLEX: A proprietary precision blending of multi benefit ingredients that reduce damage to the hair fiber, working synergistically with a nourishing, strengthening, hydrating and protective cocktail of proteins and natural botanicals that add to the remarkable results you can achieve" (straight from the bottle itself!"

http://www.hairflix.com/shop/brands/sudzz-fx.html?gclid=COL70umK8pwCFRlcagodIyOsiA

Sudzz FX is sold in various beauty supply stores and online. The average pricing for a 10 oz bottle is around $20. It's time we spoiled our hair healthy to a delicious blend of hair care ingredients!

Toxic Cocktails

So tonight I threw out my full, brand new Dove shampoo and conditioner. Why? Because after reading the ingredients -- which I HIGHLY recommend we all do -- I noticed that the big no-no's in hair care ingredients were among the power players. With all the "Repairing" "Volumizing" "Strengthening" blah blah blah decorated on every single hair product, it's no wonder our hair only seems to get worse with continual use. We are brainwashed into thinking that just because the label says it repairs your hair or it protects it from heat damage or it strengthens it, means that it does. When the bottom line is, we have absolutely no clue what is and is not a smart product for keeping our hair healthy. Today, in the harsh world of competition, hair care companies are blending together products that are doing just the opposite of caring for our hair. Here's some pointers:

First of all, sulfates are horrible for your hair. Think of them as laundry detergent. And not the gentle softeners; the hard core, get-the-stain-out chemically induced detergents. The number one hair no-no for ingredients is sodium lauryl sulfate. Next in line is ammonium laureth sulfate. Cocamidopropyl betaine is a milder detergent and is usually used to balance out the harsher ones. And fragrances? Last I checked, unless it's a natural scent (coming from fruit or plant extracts), it can only mean one thing: a rich blend of chemical sweetness. Sound alluring for your hair? Didn't think so. Water is no better. The main function of water is to create between 60-75% suds when lathering up. Lauramide DEA also has the same effect as water: it gives your lathering process a creamy, rich feel and nothing else. If possible, try to avoid preservatives such as DMDM hydantoin, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate and tetrasodium EDTA. Think of the negative effect preservatives have in your food, do you really want to "moisturize and strengthen" your hair with that? It's like eating only junk food, but calling it your diet.

The best hair care products are sulfate free and have plant extracts listed high up on the list. The higher up they are, the better. Think of your hair as a diet, the purer the ingredients, the more positive the outcome. Your hair is made up of keratin -- a protein; each strand is 97% protein and 3% moisture. These days conditioners are jam-packed with humectants (such as silicon) that only serve to weigh down your hair, acting like glue as they force the scales of your hair to lie flat. Focus on products rich in protein. Occasional hair masques are a great way to replenish your hair. Same with scalp treatments; your scalp is the mother of your hair, so treating it with a little TLC every once in a while will greatly benefit your hair.

Overall, my advice to you is to always be checking your labels. Since we are all not experts on hair -- myself included -- I go by the concept that if the word in the ingredient seems too foreign and Hooked on Phonics isn't going to be enough to get through it, ditch it. And say bye bye to sulfates. The hair care industry is a highly intoxicating market of toxically blended cocktails we call shampoos, conditioners, heat protectants, mousses, gels, etc. We just need to know the basics.

If I could design a MAC Cosmetics Window Display...

Sunless Summer Tans

Faux tan. Sunless tan. Fake tan. Or, as the popular slang has coined the term: fake and bake. Whether you're scrubbing down in the shower and slathering it on once towel dried, or rocking out to your iPod playlist and stretched out in a UV lit box; sunless tanning -- and by sunless, I mean no time spent outdoors -- has become as regular as breathing. Sunless tanning in the form of creams and spray mists is a healthy alternative. Skin cancer friendly and alluring for those proned to outrageous, destructive sunburns, sunless tanning is the perfect solution. Ask the girls at Sunset Tan and they'll tell you that the "fake'n'baking" tanning beds are all the rage -- sans the drama. Either way, the main point in question is that we want to be tan; we want to be tan all year round; and we are too busy to spend a few hours outdoors to get there.

Ask anyone, taking a walk down Faux Tan Lane and you're asking for directions faster than a man rejecting them. What's the difference between creams and gels? What makes the prestige brands like Bare Escentuals better than the mass market brands like Clarins? Which products will leave me with a beautiful bronze and which will be nightmarishly orange? Do all of these products give off that horrible faux tan smell? Does the brand name have anything to do with the zebra streaks we all fear will occur? These are just some of the questions our minds scream out when we are faced with the dilemna of choosing a brand and daring our hands to apply it. Because we all know how it goes, once it touches the skin, it's only a matter of time before some color forms.

When I worked at Sephora I had the luxury of going sample happy. From eye shadows to lip liners to perfumes to haircare to faux tanning products, I sampled it all. I developed love/hate relationships with many products; loving the outcome but hating the smell or the process. Of them was the Bare Escentuals Faux Tan -- my favorite. I will admit though, the first time I saw it, I contemplated heading for the hills. There is nothing cutesy or extravagant about the packaging -- it's all white with FAUX TAN is brown, simple text. Not the first faux tanner that I'd jump for when the market is overflowing with catchy, flashy packaging. It's the cream itself that had me opting out for 5 hours in the sun. The actual lotion itself is a dark green color, totally matte and totally scary when you remember you're supposed to apply it all over yourself. But it works! Only $22 at Sephora, this little 4.5 oz bottle of faux coloring is absolutely amazing! HINT: I mixed it with a cheap, $7 bottle of sunless tanner so that the color wasn't so intensely spread. Another great find I've encountered over the past few months is Mystique tanning lotion. It's sold in different beauty retail locations -- such as Beauty Connection in the Farmers Market in LA -- and for $38, this little charmer comes with a body sponge to help buff a golden tan, all the while keeping your hands clean. From the mass market, my winners are Jergins or Clarins. I prefer the lotion to the gel; the gel left a sticky and then uncomfortably dry residue on my skin.

If you're just looking for a quick fix, an instant sexy glow for a hot date or a night on the town, there are two all time favorites of mine. From the prestige market, available for $28 and in two delicious shades of bronze, is DuWop Revolution SPF 15. This bronzer is not a sunless tanner but it delivers a quick alternative if you need a tan and you need it now. If you're looking for a cheap, mass market proned quick fix, may I suggest Sally Hansen AirBrush Legs. Although it is made for your legs, a little spritz here and there on the chest and arms won't hurt. Either way, here's a helpful hint: add a little moisturizer to your mix, it keeps your skin from drying out and aids in an even blend.

Bon apetite beauty bloggers, faux tans can be as delicious as double chocolate cake! All you need is a good eye, an even blend and a little courage to mix it all together!

Nude, Natural, Nearly There Lips

Pale lips. Nude lips. Barely there, did-they-get-erased lips.My most favorite subject in the whole, wide, wonderful cosmetic world! A look I have obsessed over since I was in high school, it is now one of the reigning trends of the season. And if it isn't sexy, I don't know what is.

I spent years searching and searching for the perfect pale lip. I went from using under eye concealers to spot concealers to MAC Cosmetics shade sticks to one MAC Cosmetics lipstick shade after the other! People always ask me what lipstick I use and beauty gurus, get out your pretty pink pens and some paper, because here is my list of love affair items:

**MY FAVORITE: MAC Cosmetics lipstick in "Fleshpot" -- discontinued and only sold in Pro-Level Shops. It is perfection at its finest. Perfectly pale with a hint of baby pink, this lipstick is my number one must-have, must-recommend item. I simply cannot live without it! $14

MAC Cosmetics lipstick in "Myth" -- available at any MAC Cosmetics location (store, online or counter). Easier to get your manicured nails on, this shade is conveniently sold at MAC locations -- so everyone can give it a try! This peachy beige nude color another staple color to add to your collection. $14

MAC Cosmetics lipstick in "Blankety" and "Creme D'nude" -- available at any MAC Cosmetics location (store, online or counter). A little more peachy than I prefer, these colors are still great fleshtone colors that compliment just about anyone! $14

Yves Saint Laurent ROUGE VOLUPTE lipstick in "#4 Sweet Honey" -- available at Sephora and Yves Saint Laurent counters. This cremey, warm beige lipstick glides on smoothly and luxuriously. Worth that extra dollar, this is a "spoil me sexy" treat your lips will devour! $34

Sephora Brand Maniac Long Wearing Lipstick in "#11" -- available exclusively at Sephora. Priced slightly lower, this a neutral beige cremey blend of affordable goodness! $12

http://www.maccosmetics.com/

Royal Passions

Let's talk purple. It's all the rage; and it's my favorite color, aside from black. Purple is the one color that truly compliments every single person. And the beauty industry is loving every second of it. From deep, luscious royal purples to soft, iridescent violets to wild, rich magentas, purple is one of the season's reigning colors. I myself has fallen in love with this gorgeous color. From matte to shimmer, this color has taken over my makeup box. Some of my favorite brands offering delicious purples are MAC Cosmetics Pigment in Violet and Pressed Eye Shadows in Top Hat and Beautiful Iris, NARS Duo Shadow in Jolie Poupee (a matte lavender and a violet shimmer), Dior 5 Colour Eyeshadow in Stylish Move 970, Urban Decay Eye Shadow in Flash and Deluxe Eye Shadow in Fishnet. Whether I am smoking or simply lining my eyes, these purple hues are addicting and stunning. Every woman should own a purple eye product of some sort. Whether it's powder based shadow, cream based shadow, liner or mascara, experimentation with this sexy color is a must. 

TRY: A few coats of black mascara on both top and bottom lashes with an iridescent, royal purple liner in your waterline and a matching shadow lining the bottom lash line and sweeping up into a slight angled cat eye. Add a little black liner to the outer edges of your lid and you're good to go!

A Radiant Start to A Brighter, Sunnier Day

Recently I discovered a product that I can't start my day without: Decleor PARIS Source D'Eclat "Instant Radiance Moisturizer." A slave to the hair straightener, ratting brush, hairspray and everything else lethal to your hair, I stay far away from washing it on a daily basis. However, my day doesn't and won't completely begin until I have washed my face -- making me feel cleaner than clean, from head to toe, regardless if I washed my hair.

My face is my number one morning wake up call. If I don't wash it, I don't feel clean or ready to start my day -- plain and simple. I've bounced around from different daily facial moisturizers and when I landed this pretty little yellow tube of instant radiance, I quickly fell in love. Made with Essential Oils and Fruit Extracts, I swear by this product. I used to be skeptical of "instant radiance" promising products, but the first time I buffed in on, my face felt and looked like it brightened -- thanks to the help of the pretty little pearly microparticles that light up your face. It leaves your skin protected from the harsh elements of our environment while worknig hard to give you a flawless, natural looking warm glow.
Priced around $50, this lotion is worth every penny. Rather than the boring old daily regimen of "exfoliate, cleanse and tone," let's try "exfoliate, cleanse and glow!" LITERALLY.

Confessions of a Beauty Guru

I am a color cosmetics junkie through and through. I could spend hours upon hours in Sephora, wandering those colorful isles where the makeup literally jumps out at you. I even worked there and I could still wander the store on my days off, discovering new items as I flitted about the different worlds: color, skincare and fragrance. Ask me a question, I was quick on my feet. You have to be when you work in cosmetics. It's a league of its own and it is constantly changing.

Beauty is my passion -- my one true love. It will never betray me nor will it run away. Unlike men, makeup will always bring a smile to my face and brighten my day. I can easily convince myself I need the latest Smashbox innovative product, or that new purple shade of MAC eye shadow that has a hint more shimmer than the last. And don't get me started on pale lipsticks. After YEARS of thorough searching -- I even resorted to under eye concealer by Bobbi Brown -- I finally landed the perfect hue. And it is to that hue that I am forever loyal; just as I am to the many color cosmetics I use daily, the ones that overflow my polished makeup box I so dearly treasure.

My family calls it, "Putting on Caitie Woo." It's that long, 1-2 hour primping and pampering session I allot time for every morning before I leave my apartment. My friends say they never see me without my makeup. Even when I am running to the grocery store to buy soap, I glue on those false lashes -- flashes as I call them -- and wash my lips a pale peach. Makeup is a way of life; it's my own personal expression. I wear it not because I'm convinced I need it, but rather, because the rush of discovering a new color and applying it in a new look is incredibly intoxicating. I never leave my apartment without my makeup bag fully stocked in case of an emergency -- and trust me, there's been times that bulging, purple Betsey Johnson makeup case has come in handy. 

As a freelance makeup artist, and a slavish beauty guru, this blog spot is my opportunity to give away my tricks of the trade; an inside look at my love and hate relationship with old, current and upcoming products and trends; and to spread my passion for beauty to those that share it. For me, beauty is that little kid in the candy shop; overwhelmed, excited, anxious and so blissfully happy the world stops and nothing else exists but the opportunities to create art. That's what beauty is; it is a form of art that begins on the face and shines through the heart.

xoxo, caitie